FAQS

What's the difference between underwear and baselayer? Or are they the same thing?
No they are not the same thing - there's a big difference. "Underwear" is exactly that. It's designed specifically to be worn under clothes, never to be seen and therefore it doesn't always look very good and has limited use. We used to stock an underwear range called "Supreme". OK for wearing under shirts and other gear, but you wouldn't want to wear it solo. Baselayer, on the other hand, is deliberately designed for layering and to be multipurpose. We have taken great care with our Taranaki 190 range to ensure that it looks good worn solo.
There's a company in New Zealand that claims Icebreaker stuff is "sourced" in New Zealand. Doesn't this mean "made in New Zealand". Are they telling the truth?
"Sourced" is one of those weasel words. It can mean anything from "made in New Zealand" to "the ancestors of the sheep from which the wool comes from were from New Zealand". Icebreaker clothing is made in China. Their fabric is made in China. Where the wool comes from may indeed be directly from New Zealand, or as some suspect, from sheep exported from New Zealand. We have no way of knowing if the latter is true or not. What you can be sure of is that the carbon footprint of clothing made in China, with all China's environemental pollution, exported to New Zealand, and then exported to the UK is going to be far higher than that making a single journey from New Zealand, with it's stringent environmental laws, to the UK - ours.
Won't these new natural fibres, like bamboo, hemp and cellulose-based fabrics do the job just as well?
In a word - No. Whilst these fibres may be good in hot weather, none of them are a capable of managing moisture in the way Merino does. Nor will they regulate your body temperature, keeping you warm when it's cold, cool when it's hot. Neither will they keep you warm once they get wet. Also, the nature of these fabrics is not "elastic", so a close-fitting base-layer in these fabrics will not move with your body, restricting movement.
Bamboo clothing – relatively new to the market, can be seen advertised as "thermal". It isn't. It has far higher absorbency even than cotton, the down side of which is that it takes far longer to dry. Bad news if you get wet and it's cold. There's an old saying among people who go out in the mountains: "cotton kills". Bamboo won't do you any favours either.
Why don't you use organic merino wool?
So little in the way of chemicals are used to treat New Zealand merino sheep, that the extra cost simply doesn't warrant it. It's one of the reasons we prefer New Zealand Merino. Australian merino, and that includes Tasmanian merino, to be legally described as "organic", cannot be treated with chemicals to treat for insect infestation and flystrike. This means that almost invariably the sheep have to be "mulesed". It is entirely up to the customer to decide for themselves whether they prefer their wool to be organic and therefore from Australian and Tasmanian sheep who have been mulesed, or whether they prefer their wool from New Zealand merino sheep who have been treated with the minimum allowed chemical repellant. In New Zealand, pesticide use is very tightly controlled and only the safest (according to international standards) can be used. For more information click here
Should I allow for any shrinkage when buying Chocolate Fish base layers eg. Taranaki? I can't find any reference to shrinkage on your web site but my understanding is that wool tends to shrink when washed, at least for the first time or two. But does it? And if so, how much? I made the mistake of buying a cheap merino top but after the first wash it shrunk so much it was useless - just an expensive cleaning rag!
In our experience, as long as our merino is washed at 30deg on a wool cycle, using something like NikWax Woolwash (our favourite) or Ecover for Delicates - definitely not soap flakes, powder or those eco-ball thingies and definitely no fabric conditioner, and then dried away from direct heat - on a washing line or hanger for preference, it doesn't seem to shrink at all. It shouldn't as the fabric is pre-shrunk before being made into garments. We don't tumble dry as a drier can be too hot and anyway it wears your clothes out faster :'( There is some Merino gear out there that shrinks like mad - probably because it's cheap stuff that hasn't been spun well and then not pre-shrunk. Those are the processes that determine whether the fabric is machine washable or not.
My outdoor gear smells terrible after only a short time, even after it's been washed. Won't merino be even worse?
No, just the opposite. The smell you get with synthetics is the result of the build up of bacteria and fungus on the fabric that feeds on your sweat. The only way the manufacturers can stop manmade fibres from developing unpleasant odour is to add yet more chemicals to them. Because Merino absorbs this moisture before releasing it, the sweat isn't lying on the surface growing mould and bacteria. Merino will start to smell eventually, but test show that this can take days rather than the hours it takes for synthetics to start smelling unpleasant. These smells also wash out of Merino where they can stay with synthetics.
Will my Merino clothes keep their shape?
Yes. Merino, unlike some other natural fibres, such as cashmere, is naturally elastic. It is the nature of Merino fibre to "bounce back". It doesn't need any artificial additives such as lycra to help it keep its shape. Some manufacturers are adding synthetics to merino, but one has to ask why?
Aren't Merino clothes difficult to take care of?
No. On the contrary, they're extremely easy to care for. Take a look at our Merino care page .
Why don't you have a professionally designed and managed website like Rapha or some other on-line retailers?
We will if you, the customer, wants to pay more for our gear! The sad fact is that whatever we spend in overheads has to be added into the cost of our gear. Our customers are sensible folk who realise this and don't need their egos massaging by the appearance of a website. Websites designed round programs like Dreamweaver cost thousands of pounds, and need professional maintenance. We couldn't do it ourselves so we would lose control of our company. More than one company has gone out of business by going down this route when the company who designed and managed their website disappeared, leaving the company high and dry. Our website may be simple, but it means that our customers aren't paying over the odds for their gear.
Why don't you offer a paper catalogue?
Because we are an internet company. We think paper catalogues are a waste of resources and not environmentally friendly, and also to produce one costs a lot of money, the cost of which would have to be added to the cost of our clothing. As above, anything we spend in overheads has to be factored in to our pricing, so you, the customer would be paying for it. We'd rather keep our prices down.
Why don't you make your gear in the UK?
Simple - there isn't a single company left in the UK that can produce our sort of pure Superfine merino wool clothing to the standard we require and our customers expect.
Wouldn't getting your gear made in the UK reduce the environmental impact?
How could it? The environmental impact of bringing in the fabric, or even the yarn or unspun fleece, is exactly the same as bringing in the finished garments. To pretend otherwise is absolulute nonsense. As a company we simply try to keep our carbon footprint to a minimum and offset what we can.
Why can't the wool be produced here in the UK?
It's too wet so they don't thrive here. Merino sheep do not like wet feet. They also need dry pasture. UK pasture, even on the Scottish Highlands, English Lake District, and Welsh Mountains, the grass is too soft and lush, and the fleece produced would be too coarse be used for next-to-skin clothing. No doubt it would be possible by careful selective breeding to develop a Merino strain that would do well here, but the EU gives no support to farmers for wool growing.
Do you belong to any carbon-reduction program?
Yes. We found one that offers REAL benefit in terms of reduction of carbon footprint. Instead of a commercial company run from expensive and carbon-heavy offices based in London, we contribute to Bradford Council's Environmental Action Trust who plant trees AND look after them until they're properly established, here in the UK.
Why are Merino clothes more expensive than synthetic?
See what Andy Kirkpatrick says. Merino may seem expensive compared to synthetics, but it's natural properties of stain & odour resistance, means you can travel light! Add to that its performance in terms of regulating body temperature, fire-resistance, uv-protection, and ease of care, and you have the ideal fabric for the active lifestyle. Worth every penny!
Is Merino as warm as synthetic fibre?
Warmer in fact. Merino is so warm because millions of tiny pockets of air in the fabric trap air and lock in body heat. Moreover Merino has the ability to absorb and release moisture to cool or warm the body, thus regulating temperature. You'll warm up quickly but not overheat due to the exceptional breathability of the fabric. Synthetic fibres such as polypropylene or polyester are made from melting, extruding and setting a petro -chemical based product similar to plastic. The fibre can't breathe, absorb or release moisture. When knitted into a fabric they are limited to one-way moisture movement with limited breathability, which can create a chill zone when moisture sits on the outside of the fabric.
What is "wicking" and does Merino do it?
"Wicking" is a term used by manufacturers of synthetic clothes to persuade people that they're as good as Merino. They're not. Polypropylene is the most "hyped" product in the world. People actually believe that it "wicks" water away from the skin and keeps you dry. It doesn't. It's a petrochemical derivative developed to try and mimic the properties of Merino. In fact these synthetics have to be treated with hydrophilic/hydrophobic chemicals to boost their performance. Merino has tiny overlapping scales that encase the fibre. These are hydrophobic (water resistant), like tiles on a roof. The inside of the fibre however, is highly absorbent - hydrophilic, which means it can absorb and release moisture, 10x more in fact that synthetics. Each fibre can absorb up to one third of its own weight in moisture without feeling clammy or wet to the touch. Your Merino garment can then release this moisture into the atmosphere to keep you feeling warm and dry. More myths about "wicking".
How can Merino keep me warm when it's cold AND cool when it's hot?
'Cos it's MAGIC! Seriously though, Merino is the original "smart fibre". It can warm and cool your body by absorbing and releasing moisture. Your Merino garment also uses moisture to regulate temperature. When it's cold and damp a process called "heat sorption" kicks in where the fabric actually generates heat. Because Merino warms you up quickly you stay at a more even temperature even with stop/start activity in a cold environment. In a warm environment your Merino will keep you cool through the process of "cooling by evaporation". In contrast, synthetic fibres don't breathe so a "steam bath" feeling is more likely. The body has to sweat more to cool the body, which when "wicked out" as moisture can create an unpleasant chill zone.
Is Merino any good for extreme sports and extreme conditions?
Whilst Merino is great for everyday wear, Merino is worn by professional expedition leaders and scientists in the Arctic and Antarctic, by mountaineers, skiers, snow boarders, scuba divers (yes underwater), round-the-world yachts people, climbers, mountain bikers, horse riders, cyclists ..... The list is endless. Wherever conditions and effort are extreme, Merino is worn. Merino can take you anywhere!
Why is New Zealand Merino wool eco-friendly?
New Zealand wool is one of the purest, most ecological fibres. Only environmentally responsible, energy-efficient and safe production methods are used in its manufacture. New Zealand farmers use scientific land management techniques, and pay careful attention to flock rotation, animal welfare and the environment. Sheep are raised in a clean, green, unpolluted climate - natural advantages that enable them to consistently grow superior wool. No internationally banned pesticides are used on New Zealand sheep farms; and since 1993, New Zealand's already very low pesticide levels have been cut in half, making New Zealand sheepfarming one of the world's greenest animal husbandry systems.
What about animal welfare?
The fabric used in our own-label clothing is sourced from Designer Textiles' MAPP Merino, which uses ZQUE-sourced fleece.
What else can Merino do that synthetics can't?
Merino is fire-resistant. The keratin in Merino makes these garments naturally fire resistant so it won't melt or burn. Merino gives high UV protection. Your Merino garment will protect you from the sun with an SPF (sun protection factor) ranging from 25 to 50+. Merino will keep you warm even when wet. When damp or wet your Merino garment will still keep you warm. Synthetics an lose vital body heat when wet.
Wool makes me itch so I have to wear synthetics
Compared to traditional wool, individual Merino fibres are incredibly fine - far finer than any other wool. This is why Merino garments don't irritate the skin and make you itch. Whilst the large scales on traditional wool act like little barbs against sensitive skin, merino feels like silk. If you have a Merino garment and it makes you itch, check the label. It may not be pure Merino, or be a coarser Merino fibre. No other Merino is as fine as New Zealand Merino.
Our baselayer clothing is made exclusively in New Zealand using only Superfine merino. See also our our returns and refunds policy
Why are clothes made from Merino good for travelling?
Our ranges of clothes are lightweight, stylish and versatile. They can be worn for trekking, biking, sightseeing, or for going out to dinner. They're great for city breaks as well as the great outdoors. They roll up small for packing, and lose their creases quickly once shaken out. They will keep you warm when it's cold, and cool when it's hot. They will resist stains and odour build-up, are easy to wash, quick to dry. Why carry more than you need? One of our Taranaki Merino T-shirts can do the work of three synthetics or even cotton! And of course, are more eco-friendly than either.
What's the difference between wool fleece and synthetic fleece?
Simple. Synthetic "fleece" isn't fleece. Collins English Dictionary defines the word fleece as the coat of wool covering a sheep or shorn from it. In other words, if it doesn't come from a sheep it isn't fleece! The synthetics industry developed a fabric they call "fleece" in their efforts to compete with the beneficial properties of wool. Synthetic "fleece" is oil-based and has nothing to do with sheep. Wool is safer to wear having natural fire -retardant properties whereas synthetic "fleece", being oil-based, ignites easily, burns fiercely and melts, and therefore has to have chemical flame retardants added to make it safer. Real wool, and Merino in particular, is also incredibly warm in winter and cool in the summer as it has the ability to breathe with the skin and can actually absorb one third of its weight in moisture before feeling wet. Synthetic "fleece" may be warm but does not breathe easily. Wool is a renewable resource that regrows on the sheep after shearing. The wool from one Merino sheep creates five garments each year; this is a self-sustaining factory. Wool is biodegradable and kinder to the environment than oil-based synthetics which contribute to global pollution. Wool is the natural choice.
Why is Merino different from other wools?
Certain strains of Merino sheep are noted for their very fine, long fibres, which have a distinctive curl. It is a highland sheep and prospers in the cold and windy mountains of the South Island of New Zealand. Merino Sheep are now bred for the fineness of their wool fibre and the term "Superfine" has a very specific meaning. To be classed as "Superfine" the micron count of the fibre must be 19? or less. It is only in this micron count range that Merino wool becomes supersoft. Our own-label clothing is made in 100% Superfine Merino.
A lot of synthetic gear carries a tog rating. What's the tog rating of Merino?
Merino isn't quite so simple to rate. Firstly, the term "Tog" refers to thermal resistance, and this in itself has two different meanings:
1) the temperature difference across the structure when a unit of heat energy flows through it in unit time or
2) the temperature difference across a unit area of a material of unit thickness when a unit of heat energy flows through it in unit time.
It is the reciprocal of thermal conductance.
The SI units of thermal resistance are:
K/W for the first meaning
K·m²/W for the second meaning (see closer two different definitions general/buildings in thermal conductance).
In textiles, a tog value is quoted instead. This refers to it's warmth factor only, but Merino is far more complex than the synthetics given tog ratings. Merino not only keeps you warm when it's cold, it will also keep you cool when it's hot! It will even still generate heat when wet. These are not attributes that can be measured by simplistic Tog ratings. Clever stuff Merino!
What's this "Super 70" I've heard about?
The Bradford Spinning Count system originated in the 19th century (along with mechanized spinning equipment). The number refers to the number of hanks of yarn, each 560 yards in length, that it is possible to spin from one pound of clean wool. The finer the wool fiber, the more hanks (greater length, thinner yarn) that can be obtained from one pound.
The term "Super" was begun by the tailoring industry to refer to fabric woven from yarns counted as "100" or more. It seems to have now been adopted by certain manufacturers who cannot class their fabric as "Superfine", i.e. made from Superfine Merino (see chart below).
What's a "micron"?
A micron (µ) is a unit of measure (one millionth of a meter) that describes the average fiber diameter of a staple or lot of wool. During the late 1970s it evolved to be the dominant term used commercially, replacing the yarn or spinning count as a description of wool's fineness. Micron is determined by objective measurement when wool lots are tested for sale or upon processing. Most wool ranges in the 18-40 micron range. The 18µ -24µ range describes what is commercially recognized as Merino wool. Of this, only Merino with a count of 19µ or less can be classed as "Superfine".
Australian Wool Classing, publisher AWCorp, 1993 states:
For many people, wool garments feel “prickly” and evoke an allergic reaction. Wool scientists have determined that when the mean fiber diameter is less than 20µ and less than 5% of the fibers have a diameter in excess of 30µ the fabric will have “ reduced prickle intensity to a level which will not be perceived as skin discomfort by most people under normal conditions.”
The table below shows the relationship between the type of Merino wool, the count or BSC and the approximate fineness in microns(µ).

DESCRIPTION	Superfine	Fine	Medium	Strong	Extra Strong
COUNT (BSC)	90s, 80s, 74s	70s	64s	60s	58s
MICRON (µ)	<19m	19m- 20m	22m- 24m	24m- 25m	25m- 27m