Choosing a Merino Base Layer cont'd...

Function - or just style?

There are so many choices in types and styles that it's worth first thinking about what you want from your Base Layer; to wear purely as underwear which is limited in its use, or to also wear on its own.

Sizing/Fit

We often get asked to advise on sizing because the customer wants a looser fit. However it is worth remembering when choosing size, that if a base layer is not close fitting, it cannot work properly. It is the interaction with your skin that lets it do it's work. If the fit is big and baggy it simply will not perform properly. However, a skin-tight fit may put excessive strain on both fabric and seams reducing its durability. So our advice is to aim for a body-skimming comfort fit.

Seam types

There are three types of seams used in the manufacture of Base Layers:

1. Flatlocked seams - One edge is laid on top of another and a broad band of thick coarse thread is run along every join. These coarse and bulky seams are then in contact with the body potentially causing discomfort. However it's a cheap and fast process. In additionwe think it's ugly and makes the garment look like underwear.

2. Overlocked/serged seams - the two edges are laid back to back and sewn along the inside, using a narrow overlocking stitch that stops the edges fraying. On synthetic garments this edge can cause abrasion or discomfort depedning on how harsh the synthetic is, but no more and potentially less than a flatlocked seam.sed on synthetic garments.

3. Flat seams. This, contrary to popular opinion is not what you will find on modern baselayer clothing. True flat seams are done on thin fabrics by folding one seam edge around the other and then running a single line of stitches along top to hold them flat. This creates the minimum of bulk AND the minimum of harsh thread against the skin.

With a merino baselayer, the fabric is so soft on the skin that skin abrasion simply doesn't happen, even under heavy backpacks. Nor is superfine merino bulky. So flat seaming is really a matter of styling rather than true function.

Gear Guru Pete Macfarlane said in a review:

“ I think we need to revisit that and say “Well finished seams don’t chafe”. Oddly the only bad case of chafing I remember having is from an raglan sleeved microfleece where the flatlocked seam lined up perfectly with my collar bone, and with dexterously applied pressure from my rucksack strap over the top my life was a living hell as that particular gear alignment sawed its way down to the bone over a weekend.”

Pete’s view is echoed by Phil Turner of Walk Highlands, who said in his review of our Taranaki 190 Zipneck:

“This also the only baselayer I've seen with overlocked or serged seams - they aren't as aesthetically pleasing to garment designers but feel less bulky than the omnipresent flatlocked method. I can't even detect the seam that runs right across the shoulder when wearing a pack.”

It should also be born in mind that if the garment is to be worn as a solo garment as well, the exposed stitching can suffer wear and tear due to friction. This does not usually happen with overlocked seams.

Continued.....